This is Grüner with serious swagger. From the revered Loibner Steinertal vineyard, FX Pichler’s 2015 Smaragd is rich, spicy, and beautifully textured. Expect ripe orchard fruit, white pepper, and a mineral backbone that could hold up a suspension bridge. Decadent yet precise, this is Austria flexing its muscles in the glass. A wine for those who like their whites powerful but still dressed in silk.